Vincent Carême, a Vouvray Revivalist

“Tom, I hear you’re in the Loire.” Came an excited call from Xander Sadie, currently plying his trade at Brookdale in Paarl.

 “You must visit Vincent Carême. I spent a harvest there a couple of years ago and the wines are not yet in South Africa. I’ve recommended Radford Dale Imports to them. The labels are k**, but the juice is lekker! And the pricing is excellent for what it is. I’ll send you their number.” 

Always to the point.

Sadly, we could not get our diaries together on that trip, but Vincent would be visiting the Cape soon. He splits time between his domaine in Vouvray and the Swartland, where he produces the Terre Brûlée label.

Before meeting Vincent in person and just returned from the France trip, I would come across the name once again at the 96 Winery Road restaurant. Ina Smith and André Morgenthal of the Chenin Blanc Association of SA were at another table. An association that has done wonders for the camaraderie around Chenin Blanc across international borders.

 “You must try this...” Ina beamed, offering up the open bottle of Vincent Carême.

Was the industry conspiring to get these wines to South Africa?

Sure enough, we would finally meet with Vincent and Tania Carême. Without exception, the wines lived up to their billing. We’re thrilled to welcome them to the portfolio.

The domaine is our first Vouvray specialist, and alongside new additions from Thierry Germain in Saumur, the Chenin Blanc curation has significantly ramped up..

Vincent is a first-generation producer (his parents cereal farmers) based in Vouvray since 1999. He’s an important figure in the revival of Vouvray, leading the way with organic viticulture and meticulous cellar work that allows for minimal additives. He teaches at Lycée Viticole in Amboise and has mentored a host of young, progressive vignerons coming up in the region.

His first wine came at the tender age of 14, kicking off his lifelong obsession with wine. Following his studies, he completed harvests in Sancerre, Champagne and Alsace. In 1997 he travelled to South Africa, where he met Tania, and worked several harvests in the Swartland.

“The discovery of my spiritual home in South Africa dates back to my first harvest in the Swartland in 1997. Witnessing the tremendous potential of the region inspired me to return and produce a Chenin Blanc, using the same care and precision as my French wines.” Vincent

Of course, they are two very different regions. The warm, arid nature of the Swartland and granite lending more stone fruit and salinity as a rule of thumb, whilst the maritime-meets-continental, cooler Vouvray, and limestone bedrock lean more on orchard fruit, citrus and stony minerality.

Each compelling in their own right and representative of Vincent’s deep connection to Chenin Blanc.

For Vouvray, it’s success hinges on Chenin Blanc. It’s the exclusive grape variety planted here. Chenin’s incredible versatility as bone-dry (indicated by ‘sec’ on the label), off-dry (‘tendre’), sweet (‘moelleux’) or sparkling is both a strength and a weakness. It can be difficult at first glance for a consumer to tell the difference.

That said, the maiden intake is a celebration of the versatility of Chenin Blanc in Vouvray and we’ve gone all in on a brilliant set across sparkling wine, bone-dry old vine bottlings, and a sticky to complete the medley.

See all Loire Valley wines here