Thierry Germain: Benchmark Loire Cabernet Franc

Domaine des Roches Neuves was founded in the early 90s by Thierry Germain. Based in Saumur-Champigny, they’re carving out benchmark Cabernet Franc with a real point of difference and casting influence among producing peers the world over. Not least in our work at Radford Dale Organic in Elgin.

“… the resulting wines are some of the best in the region: charming, balanced and delicately poised. But that should be expected from this domaine.” Vinous on the 2021 vintage

Visiting in 2024, there was a sense of reflection and fulfilment on show from Thierry. His son Louis is gradually taking over the reins, and following 30 years of uncompromising and pioneering biodynamic viticulture, he is now confident they both understand the practices and are seeing the results in their wines. As Thierry energetically darts around the deep, dimly lit tuffeau tunnels, pouring samples from barrel and foudre, it’s difficult not to be convinced by their methodology.

Thierry Germain may be of Bordeaux lineage, but there is a strong Burgundian sensibility here. They focus on two varietals, and tend to around 60 plots of vineyards (predominantly Cab Franc, plus a little Chenin Blanc) spread across a mosaic of terroirs in the appellation. Sites of individual merit are vinified and bottled separately.

Thierry likes to release the wines young. To miss them in youth would be akin to missing the first years of a newborn child’s life, he reckons. But there is also a proven longevity in the wines, achieved through balance rather than force and the promise of integration.

It’s clear from our tasting and notes elsewhere, that Thierry enjoys a party trick. We note with surprise, the dates of opening scribbled onto the sample bottles. Two weeks here, a month there. They’re remarkably fresh.

“Wines with life, don’t oxidise.” beams Thierry.

Notes on the available wines below. Enjoy!

(NB. pricing correct at time of publishing (Jan '25) but subject to change)

Saumur-Champigny L’Insolite 2022 - R 954

“The Unusual”, a bone-dry Saumur blanc from a gnarly 90 year old vineyard of Chenin Blanc, on silex-rich soils over a bedrock of limestone. Multiple picks bring a combination of richness and vitality, bristling in fresh orchard fruits and salty rocks.

Saumur-Champigny Clos Romans 2021 - R 2,058

From a vineyard within a clos (walled) dating back to the 11th century. Clay, sandy soils over a bedrock of limestone. Thierry replants at high density here, using cuttings from top performing vines on the site (massale selection). This is Chenin Blanc at its finest; intense, concentrated and long. An identity of its own.

Saumur-Champigny Cuvée Domaine 2022 - R 610

The prettiest of the Cabernet Franc bottlings, blended from an array of domaine parcels. Inviting scents of fresh black and red berries and florals, whilst the palate is clean and invigorating to drink. A great advert for cooler climate Cabernet Franc.

Saumur-Champigny La Marginale  

2021 - R 1,298

2019 - R 878

Made only in vintages where they can achieve balance from this ‘marginal’ site.

(2021) Fragrant, led out by brambly red berries and black berry coulis. Tannins are present, but kept in check by a coating of sleek fruit. A sophisticated drop.

(2019) A little hedonistic in aroma, with crushed black fruits, leaf, earth and violets. Intense and contoured on the palate. This is a great buy.

Saumur-Champigny Les Memoires 2020 - R 1,089

(2021 sold out) From one of the great vineyards of Cabernet Franc, planted in 1904 on crumbly flint and limestone. Sleek old vine concentration showing primary black cherries, red fruit and florals. Inviting today, with a lovely backbone and freshness on the finish. Reminds us of a good Chambolle-Musigny.

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